Santiago, Chile

On our way to Antarctica we had a few pit stops to make.  First Dallas, now on to Santiago.  This part of the trip is probably what I was most concerned about gluten-wise.  I had done some Internet research and most postings said that Chile was VERY stringent about bringing in any food.  I even got a letter from National Geographic/Lindland Expeditions (who I was going with) stating not to bring any food on the flight to Santiago and if you did to be sure to declare it.  Even declared, it may be completely confiscated.  If not declared, you faced a fine of up to $25,000 and hours of being detained. That being said, it was a 9 hour plane ride without any idea when I would eat again.  I found a page with specifics about what could legally be brought in and tried to stick to it.

  I brought 5 - 6 Larabars with some concern about nuts, Hail Merry Grawnola sample packs, some hard ginger candies for sea sickness and a box of Valentines chocolate (we would be in Antarctica that day and it's my sig other's (SO) favorite VDay treat).  I didn't think I would get any of these things through.  A Larabar and some Grawnola did save my butt as I watched my SO eat glutenous yogurt and a croissant for breakfast before landing. I declared everything and went to the scary uniformed men at customs.  They looked my food over, verified that my heart box was indeed "comida, si?"  Then a simple "Is okay" and a wave of the hand and I was free!  I would have brought so much more if I knew it would be that easy.

After a 30 minute drive from the airport, through the shantytowns that the tour driver never acknowledged existing at all, we arrived at our home for the next 18 hours.

We checked in and got up to our room with a beautiful view.  The next step... FOOD!!  I was starving.  I had only had my Larabar and a little Granola and it was now well past lunch time.  So, here I am at the beginning of an incredible vacation, in a 5 star hotel, hungry.  I did what any completely rational, hypoglycemic girl would do.  I ordered room service!  The Hyatt is known for their gluten free friendliness so I gave it a try, in Spanish.  Initially, it didn't look good.  The man at the end of the line spoke little English and my Spanish is "muy malo".   He figured out that I had an "allergy" and quickly got someone with some English skills on the line.  We still fumbled a bit but I ordered something relatively easy and likely to be gluten free and she understood what I needed.  I had a lovely omelet with tomato, cheese (confirmed GF) and red peppers.  It came with some roasted greens, tomatoes and yucca instead of toast.  The fruit plate was phenomenal, super fresh and sweet!

Full of glucose minus the gluten once again, we took off to have a walking tour of the city.

I was hoping for some traditional Chilean food.  I brought my trusty food/travel GF card with me and we were off.  It was hot out there.  And quite honestly I was tired.  The walking tour took us past historical  parks, churches and government buildings.  Nothing food-wise struck my fancy.  Nothing that was worth asking gluten questions in Spanish for.  At the end of out walk we did find a central gathering place called The Central Market or Mercado Central.  It is an open air, fresh fish and fruit market.

We were both dirty, sweating and exhausted by this point.  We decided we would both like life a lot better with a shower and a nap rather than a gluten experiment just then.  I do really think this is potentially a great place to find fresh, gluten free food in Santiago, though.  I would try it if we ever went back.
I also want to note that we spoke to many people who had spent more than a few days in Santiago and they all commented that they hadn't found any amazing Chilean food and that it tended to be very bland.


After a nap and shower I felt much better and ready for the next challenge.  Our presence was requested at a cocktail hour and introduction dinner at the Grand Hyatt.  I had called and written to my trip organizers that I had celiac and was gluten free before the trip. They assured me that they dealt with this often and would take care of it.
The cocktail hour at the pool side was a great success.  They had some killer drinks and lovely looking appetizers.  I was easily able to locate a staff member and talk gluten.  She said they were expecting me and would find out what I could and couldn't eat.  She quickly came back saying there was only one appetizer that wasn't GF.  With that great answer she also brought 2 trays of appetizers just for me.  Yeah me!  There were probably 6 appetizers in all that were safe.  All of then delicious.

I know, that looks like soy sauce.  It is balsamic vinegar.  I confirmed!

Just a little tipsy and half full, we headed inside for dinner with the the other 140 passengers headed to Antarctica.  There are 3 restaurants and 2 lounge/bar eateries in the Santiago Grand Hyatt.  We were scheduled to eats at Senso, the Italian restaurant.  I initially had worries but after the cocktail hour I was a little more optimistic.  There was a set menu and the 1st course, a glutenous something, was preset on the table.  We were being welcomed at that point so it was difficult to flag someone down to help me.  After a few Spanish speaking only servers I was able to find someone who spoke English.  Unfortunately, she continued to repeat over and over that she understood and would get my vegetarian meal for me.  I tried to explain gluten but she just didn't get it.  I found someone not associated with the restaurant staff but with our Travel company (Lindblad) to help.  They says they knew about my needs and just needed to know where I was sitting and they would send my meal right over.
I was presented with a nice mixed greens salad with vinaigrette for the 1st course.  While everyone else had a terribly overcooked piece of tuna on something glutenous, I was given indeed a vegetarian dish.  However it was also GF and super yummy!

Vegetarian/GF Lasagna.  No noodle, just veggies. 

As dessert we had a "creme brulee" with berries.  I use quotes here because, in fact, there was no brulee, just creme.  The berries were good but the rest really wasn't worth the calories.

There was also some chocolates brought to us, milk, dark and white but I was full and didn't have the patience or confidence in the staff to ask about gluten status. heck, I could barely ask for sugar for my coffee in Spanish!  Stupid American!

We headed to bed for the full night of 5 hour sleep we had ahead of us.


In the morning we were expected on our airport shuttle bus at 5 a.m.  We woke at 4 ish and headed down stairs for a quick breakfast.  There was a large buffet set up mostly of gluten full foods.  The were beautiful little coffee cakes and scones and lots of cereal and pancakes.  I did resist but, did I mention it was not even 5 a.m. yet?   I took a small risk getting some plain yogurt with almonds and a piece of canned fruit.  Most plain yogurt is safe even if their fruit filled equivalents are not so I took the chance.  I also had some bacon, cheese and fruit.  Basically I just put anything I thought might be safe on my plate.

It worked, I was satiated and did not get contaminated.  The coffee cake did look good though. Never mind that!!  On to the next leg of the adventure... Santiago, Chile to Ushuaia, Argentina...